Entre
deux valises
Entre
deux valises
12 days of road trip exploring
Jordan's treasures
In March, we set off to discover Jordan. Day after day, the country amazed us: majestic archaeological sites, hikes through breathtaking landscapes, timeless moments in the lunar scenery of Wadi Rum... and, above all, the genuine warmth of its people. A vibrant and luminous journey.
Summary
Overview of our trip
Duration
12 days
Distance traveled
1,100 km
Time of year
March
Not to be missed
Amman, Jerash, Dana Reserve, Wadi Rum, Petra
Our itinerary
Day 1: First steps in Jordan
Day 2: Amman's iconic sites and Ajlun Castle
We began our day in Amman with a visit to the Citadel, which we reached on foot from the hotel (~15 minutes walk). The path led us up a series of steps, and from the top, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the Roman Theater and the surrounding hills, dotted with the tightly packed buildings so typical of Amman. We arrived at the Citadel at opening time, allowing us to explore the site in a serene, uncrowded atmosphere. The site reflects the region's rich and complex history, with remains spanning several civilizations. Among the highlights are the imposing Temple of Hercules, the ruins of a Byzantine church, and the partially restored Umayyad Palace. After this visit, we descended to the lower city to visit the Odeon and then the Roman Theater, striking for both its scale and excellent preservation. Just to the right of the entrance, the small Folklore Museum offers an interesting glimpse into Jordanian traditions and daily life.
Back in the city center, we stopped for lunch at Hashem Restaurant, a beloved spot among both locals and visitors for its famous falafel. After lunch, we browsed the Trinitae boutique, which features a refined selection of cosmetics made with local ingredients (including Dead Sea salt and mud) - a perfect souvenir from Jordan. We then strolled through the bustling city streets down to the souks.
In the mid-afternoon, we left Amman for Ajlun Castle, about a 1.5-hour drive north. This medieval fortress, perched on a hilltop, offers beautiful views of the valley, though it’s not, in our opinion, an unmissable site. After a brief visit, we continued on to Jerash (~35 minutes by car), where we’ve booked a small apartment for the night. Dinner was at The Lebanese House, which serves authentic Lebanese dishes in an elegant setting.
Day 3: The archaeological site of Jerash
In the morning, we set off to explore the ruins of Jerash, the ancient Roman city built between the 1st and 3rd centuries. The site - one of our favorites in Jordan - offers a striking glimpse into the organization and grandeur of the Roman world. Many landmarks, such as Hadrian’s Arch, the Hippodrome, the Temple of Artemis, and the Forum, remain remarkably well preserved. Along the main thoroughfare, the cardo maximus, the grooves left by chariot wheels centuries ago are still visible, and it’s easy to picture a performance taking place in the city’s southern theater. Spanning roughly 2.5 kms, the site is vast and well worth devoting at least half a day. Guides are available at the entrance, though we opted to explore using the explanations in our travel guidebook. After the visit, we grabbed a sandwich just outside the site before beginning the 3.5-hour drive toward the Dana Biosphere Reserve.
We arrived in Dana by late afternoon, where we booked two nights at the Feynan Ecolodge. Nestled in the heart of the reserve, this lodge is known for its sustainable ethos and close ties with the local Bedouin community: built with local materials, powered primarily by renewable energy, staffed almost entirely by residents of nearby villages, and serving vegetarian meals prepared on-site with regional ingredients and traditional Jordanian recipes. Guests can also join activities such as stargazing, craft demonstrations, or guided hikes. We paid €570 for two nights, including full board and some activities. While the experience was memorable - immersed in nature, authentic, and unlike anywhere else - we felt the price was a little steep given the service: rooms are quite small, the lodge shows signs of wear, and many activities are at an extra cost. Still, we do not regret the stay.
On our first evening, we arrived just in time to learn the secrets of making traditional Bedouin bread, baked directly in the ashes, and absolutely delicious. As the sun began to set, we walked up a small hill about 15 minutes from the lodge, where we enjoy the fading light in complete stillness. Returning to the ecolodge, we dined in a candlelit setting before heading up to the rooftop for a stargazing session. There, a guide introduced us to the constellations and let us glimpse a few stars through the telescope - an enchanting end to the day.
Days 4 and 5: The Dana Reserve
For our first day, we set out on a self-guided hike in Wadi Ghuweir. The ecolodge team dropped us off at the trailhead in a 4x4, and we began following the dry riverbed, which gradually gives way to a stream, nourishing increasingly lush vegetation. After a few hours of walking, we found ourselves deep within striking ochre-hued gorges - a breathtaking sight. Here, we paused to enjoy the delicious picnic prepared by the lodge. We then retraced our steps to the starting point, where another 4x4 waited to take us back. The day ended once again with a sunset from the surrounding hills, followed by stargazing on the lodge’s rooftop after dinner.
On our second day, we joined a guided hike to explore ancient copper mines near the lodge. Our guide explained how vast deposits of copper were discovered and extracted here thousands of years ago, then led us through the remnants of shafts and tunnels carved into the rock. We finished with a traditional tea break in the midst of the rugged landscape before returning to the lodge for lunch. Soon after, we took the road south toward Aqaba (about a 3-hour drive).
Instead of following Route 65, we opted for a scenic detour along Route 35, which rewarded us with magnificent panoramas. On the way, we stopped at Siq al-Barid (also known as Little Petra). Its rock-cut facades resemble those of Petra but on a smaller scale - and with far fewer visitors. The site played an important role in Nabataean commerce as caravans used to stop here along the trade routes linking Arabia, Syria, and Egypt. We ended the day in Aqaba, where we booked two nights at the Luciana Hotel - a comfortable, good-value option about ten minutes’ walk from the center.
Day 6: Scuba diving and visit of Aqaba
In the morning, we headed south of Aqaba to enjoy the Red Sea. My husband went on a dive to explore the Cedar Pride wreck with Arab Divers (35 JOD). The dive starts from the beach, followed by a short 130-meter swim to reach the wreck. Meanwhile, I set out to snorkel at the "Japanese Garden" site, which is supposed to be nearby. I struggled to locate it underwater - perhaps I simply missed it! In any case, after diving in Thailand and French Polynesia, these underwater experiences left little impression, as the number of fish and corals was relatively limited.
Back in Aqaba, we had lunch at Baba Za'atar, known for its delicious manakesh (flatbreads with fillings) and pizzas at unbeatable prices (~2€ per plate). We then strolled around the city, visiting the ruins of Ayla, an ancient port founded in the 7th century (informational signs help imagine its past), and Aqaba Fort, a 16th-century Ottoman fortress built to protect the city from maritime attacks. To end the day, we enjoyed a drink and then dinner at Romero Restaurant at the Royal Yacht Club on the marina. The menu offers an unexpected mix of Italian dishes and sushi, complemented by a stunning view of the sunset behind the hills of Israel.
Aqaba is a pleasant seaside town - Jordan’s only coastal city on the Red Sea - but in our view, it’s not an essential stop on a Jordan itinerary.
Days 7 and 8: Wadi Rum
Wadi Rum is a desert valley and UNESCO World Heritage Site, located about an hour’s drive east of Aqaba. It is characterized by vast plains and striking sandstone and granite formations sculpted into natural arches, cliffs, and deep canyons. Beyond its spectacular landscapes, the valley is steeped in history, having been inhabited by various tribes since prehistoric times and famously marked by the Arab Revolt led by Lawrence of Arabia in 1917.
There are several ways to explore Wadi Rum: by 4x4, camel, horse, or on foot for the more adventurous. We chose a two-day, two-night guided 4x4 tour, booked in advance with the Wadi Rum Desert Eyes agency (340 JOD for two, approximately €220 per person, including full board).
On the first day, we met our guide at Wadi Rum village, the gateway to the desert, and set off to explore iconic sites such as Siq Khazali, adorned with ancient engravings, the dunes of Al Hasany, and the arches of Burdah. The landscapes change dramatically - from deep ochre to pale yellow - in just a few minutes of 4x4 driving, creating a truly mesmerizing effect. At the end of the day, we enjoyed dinner and spent the night under the stars, completely isolated in the heart of the desert.
The next morning, strong winds prevented us from preparing breakfast in the desert, so our guide took us to his brother’s Bedouin tent, where we shared a meal. We then climbed Jebel Al-Hash, whose summit offers a breathtaking view over the Jordanian and Saudi deserts. Returning to our guide’s brother’s home, we had lunch and chatted with other travelers and guides, gaining insight into Bedouin life. In the late afternoon, we reached our second night’s camp and watched a stunning desert sunset.
Our impression of this experience? We were deeply moved by the beauty of the desert and the warmth of the Bedouins - especially our guide. The organization was impeccable, though in hindsight, we would likely spend just one night in the desert, as the second day’s itinerary is lighter. The only downside: while most tours follow the same route, they are often private. Like many couples, we had a 4x4 entirely to ourselves, which could have accommodated 4-6 people, and sharing would have reduced the ecological impact of the excursion.
Days 9 and 10: Petra
Day 1 : The Siq, the Treasury, the street of facades and the ancient city
We arrived at Petra’s Visitor Center from Wadi Rum (~2-hour drive) at around 10:30 a.m. and found a parking spot right in front. Reaching the heart of the site requires a 2-km walk (~25 minutes) from the Visitor Center. The walk begins along a clear path before entering a spectacular canyon: the Siq. Its towering rock walls guide visitors toward the famous Treasury (Al-Khazneh). With every turn, our anticipation grew, each bend potentially revealing the Treasury. And then, finally, it appeared - majestic and awe-inspiring. Unsurprisingly, the site is very busy, so we struggled to fully enjoy it and decided to admire it in more detail the following morning when it would be quieter.
We continued exploring Petra along the Street of Facades, stopping frequently to admire the sights. Rather than heading straight into the center of the ancient city, we turned right at the end of the street, passed the Palace Tomb, and walked a few dozen meters to reach the foot of a long staircase. This is the start of the Al-Khubtha Trail, which offers stunning views of the theater, the Street of Facades, and finally the Treasury 200 meters below. The trail, which takes about 1.5 hours round trip, begins with a series of steps, then continues along a sandy plateau before reaching the viewpoint with a privileged view of the Treasury. Unlike the crowds at the base, here we encountered very few tourists - a wonderful opportunity to experience the site in peace.
After descending the same way, we had lunch at the Nabatean Restaurant, located behind the Visitor Center. As expected, prices are relatively high for Jordan (~€10 for a sandwich and a drink), but the food is quite good. We then visited the center of the ancient city before leaving Petra in the mid-afternoon. The walk back through the Siq is uphill, and after a day of walking, fatigue sets in. It’s wise to save some energy for this final stretch.
Day 2: The High Place of Sacrifice, Wadi Farasa, and the Monastery
On the second day, we arrived at the Treasury around 7 a.m., aiming to see it without the crowd. We could sit on a small bench facing it, almost alone, to admire its beauty - a truly special moment! We then climbed to the High Place of Sacrifice (Al-Madbah). The trail starts just before the theater and takes about 40 minutes to reach the summit, where we were rewarded with panoramic views of Petra. After exploring the High Place of Sacrifice, we started the Wadi Farasa Trail, which descends the other side of the mountain and eventually reconnects with the ancient city. The trail begins near the obelisks and is marked with a sign. It was one of our favorites in Petra: it passes through beautiful landscapes and well-preserved ruins, including the Lion Fountain and the Tomb of the Roman Soldier, and is very quiet - we encountered very few tourists along the way. Including stops, it took us about 2 hours to complete.
Back in the heart of the ancient city, we picked up a takeaway picnic at the Nabatean Restaurant before heading toward the Monastery (Al-Deir), another iconic Petra monument. The trail to the Monastery starts behind the Basin Restaurant (if unsure, just follow the flow of tourists). The route is 1.5 km long and includes 800 steps. After about 35 minutes of climbing, we reached the Monastery. We sat in front of this imposing monument to enjoy our picnic before descending back into the city. We wandered a little more through the ancient city before leaving Petra.
Tips for visiting Pétra
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Petra is immense, and while the Treasury is the iconic highlight, the site is full of other remarkable ruins worth seeing. In our opinion, two days are well worth it.
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In front of the Treasury, several locals, including children, offered to guide us to different viewpoints for $20. We preferred the Al-Khubtha Trail, which can be done independently in 1.5 hours and offers magnificent panoramas, not only of the Treasury but of other Petra monuments as well.
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It’s advisable to have a paper guidebook to navigate Petra and understand the history of the monuments, as the informational signs were often faded and difficult to read during our visit.
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There are many hiking trails in Petra. This site (in English) lists some of them and provides useful instructions.
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During our stay in Petra, we rented an apartment located on the heights of Wadi Musa, the town bordering the site. Both evenings, we dined at Zawaya Restaurant, which serves excellent dishes inspired by local cuisine.
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We decided not to do the famous “Petra by Night.” Although the photos looked appealing, many online reviews warned of overcrowding and poor crowd management. Instead, we chose to arrive at Petra at opening on the second day to admire the Treasury in peacefully.
Days 11 and 12: The Dead Sea region
After the intensity of Petra, we began our journey back north. We decided to vary the landscapes by taking the Desert Road instead of following the Dead Sea route as we did on the way down. Along the way, we stopped at the Mujib Panorama, which offers a dizzying view of the Wadi Mujib canyon. It’s a nice viewpoint, but the detour via the Desert Road - which adds about 40 minutes - didn’t feel essential; the spectacular scenery along the Dead Sea route had left a stronger impression on us.
We continued to the Dead Sea Panorama Complex. On site, a small museum explains the geological formation of the region, while a restaurant with a terrace offers stunning views of the calm waters of the Dead Sea. On the day we visited, only a buffet was available - relatively expensive and not very impressive in terms of quality. Parking and access to the museum cost 2 JOD. In our opinion, it’s best to stop here to enjoy the view and then look for a more authentic restaurant nearby.
We then spent the afternoon and night at the Mövenpick Dead Sea, a large resort located on the shores of the Dead Sea. With several pools, direct access to the sea, a spa, lush gardens, and multiple restaurants, the setting is peaceful and perfect for unwinding at the end of the trip. We took the opportunity to indulge in a regional specialty: a Dead Sea mud treatment, renowned for its relaxing and skin-beneficial properties.
Note: if you have more time in the region, you can also explore Kerak Castle or Herod’s Castle at Machaerus, both well-known sites.
The next day, we began our final day in Jordan with a guided visit to Bethany Beyond the Jordan (12 JOD), the presumed site of Jesus’ baptism and an important spiritual site for Christians. Tickets are purchased at the visitor center. The site is located very close to the border with Israel, so a passport is required to visit. We then continued to Mount Nebo, another major biblical site, where Moses is said to have glimpsed the Promised Land. The Moses Memorial Church (2 JOD) houses stunning 6th-century mosaics, remarkably well-preserved and rich in detail.
We concluded our journey in Madaba, a charming town famous for its mosaics. Our visit started at St. George’s Church (1 JOD), renowned for its 560 AD mosaic map of the Holy Land, which depicts the cities and roads of the Byzantine era. We then explored the archaeological parks (included in the Jordan Pass) and the Sanctuary of the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist (1 JOD), a church whose bell tower offers a beautiful view of the city. Before leaving Madaba, we had lunch at Ayola Café, a friendly spot serving a varied menu (sandwiches, hot dishes, pizzas…), and took advantage of our last moments in Jordan to buy a few souvenirs, including spices.
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