Entre
deux valises
Entre
deux valises
Our 8-day itinerary
in the Scottish Highlands
When we decided to head to Scotland in mid-December, our goal was clear: to explore the snow-dusted Highlands and, with a bit of luck, catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights. While the unpredictable weather mostly brought us rain, it also treated us to occasional bursts of sunlight, revealing landscapes of wild, magnetic beauty.
Scottish winter also has a unique atmosphere: short days where the low light accentuates every ridge and valley, evenings by the fire with a glass of whisky in hand, and the calming rhythm of long, silent nights.
A winter escape that balances immensity and intimacy.
Summary
Overview of our trip
Duration
8 days
Distance traveled
1,200 km
Time of year
December
Not to be missed
Culloden Battlefield, Inverness Guided Tour, Old Man of Storr and Quiraing hikes on the Isle of Skye, Talisker Distillery Tour, Glencoe
Our itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Glasgow and drive to Loch Ness
We picked up our rental car at Glasgow Airport around 2 p.m. and decided to head straight to our accommodation, located on the shores of Loch Ness, a 3.5-hour drive away. Our flight was originally scheduled to arrive in the morning, and we had planned to stop off to visit the city of Stirling on the way. If you have more time than we did, Stirling seems like a great place to stop: it's a city steeped in history, known for its many attractions such as its superbly preserved Old Town, its medieval castle, and its former Victorian prison.
We stayed at Foyers Bay Country House, a charming guesthouse overlooking Loch Ness. The owners are lovely, the house is warm and comfortable, and it's not unsual to spot wildlife passing through the garden. We enjoyed dinner on-site, followed by a good Scotch whisky to round off the day.
Day 2: Culloden and the Black Isle Peninsula
We started the day with a visit to the Culloden Battlefield, the site of the 1746 battle between the Jacobites and British forces - a pivotal moment in Scottish history. The site features a fascinating museum as well as the battlefield itself, which we explored on a guided tour (entrance + guided tour: ~€18). The vibrant colors of the landscape, combined with the solemn atmosphere of this historic site, left a lasting impression on us. After the visit, we enjoyed lunch at the small on-site restaurant.
Next, we stopped at the Clava Cairns, a set of prehistoric megalithic burial monuments, before continuing our journey toward the Black Isle peninsula. In the charming fishing village of Rosemarkie, we paused for a coffee before heading to the Black Isle Brewery. If you plan to visit the brewery, be sure to contact them in advance to arrange a visit, especially in winter.
We ended the day in Inverness, staying overnight at the Bluebell House Hotel, which offers comfortable rooms. Its central location makes it ideal for exploring the city on foot, and with private parking available, it’s very convenient for leaving your car. Tip: if you’re visiting Inverness over the weekend, make sure to book a restaurant in advance - we struggled to find a table without a reservation!
Day 3: Inverness and Urquhart Castle
We started the day with a 1.5-hour guided tour of Inverness (~€14, booked on Civitatis ). Our fascinating guide immersed us in the history of the city and of Scotland, echoing our visit to Culloden the day before. This historical context helped us better understand the significant events in the region and the fate of the Scottish clans after the Battle of Culloden.
In the afternoon, we explored the ruins of Urquhart Castle, an iconic fortress perched on the edge of Loch Ness. Informative panels around the site help bring the castle’s past to life, allowing you to imagine its heyday.
We then made our way to Strathpeffer for the night. This small, tranquil village was once renowned for its spa resort, and its charming buildings have retained their Victorian elegance.
Day 4: Drive to the Isle of Skye and hike of the Old Man of Storr
We set off in the morning for the Isle of Skye, taking the A832 and A890 roads for a 2.5-hour drive through breathtaking scenery. The roads wind between towering mountains and vast plains painted in red and yellow hues, crossed by dark streams, and bordered by lakes and forests. Twice along the way, we were lucky enough to spot deer, adding a touch of magic to this unforgettable journey.
Upon arriving on the Isle of Skye, we stopped at the photogenic Sligachan Old Bridge before heading north to the start of the famous Old Man of Storr hike. We parked at the trailhead and layered up against the biting wind as the sky darkened. After a few minutes of walking, the rain started, but we pressed on across the grassy slopes. About twenty minutes in, the iconic rocky peaks began to emerge through the mist. The rain eased, but the mist lingered, creating a uniquely atmospheric view of the Old Man of Storr. Turning around, we were rewarded with a spectacular panorama of lochs, sea, and mountains. We continued to the foot of the Old Man, marveling at the surrouning landscapes.
This hike has been one of the highlights of our stay in Scotland, as we were touched by the raw beauty of the place. From our point of view, the climb, although steep, remains accessible and the reward at the top is exceptional. The trail gains ~350 meters in elevation, and stretches roughly 5 kms. At the start, you can take the Lochan Loop, which offers beautiful views of the ridge and nearby loch, or the shorter but steeper Storr path. We recommend allowing 2 hours to climb, enjoy the panorama and descend. The hike is particularly popular at sunrise.
Next, we headed to Portree , a charming fishing port (and the island's largest town), known for its pastel-colored houses. We stopped at MacKenzie's Bakery for a late lunch, before driving west to catch the sunset at Neist Point, an hour from Portree. This rocky promontory, overlooked by its iconic lighthouse, is known for offering incredible sunsets. The rainy weather only allowed us for a brief glimpse that day.
Finally, we made our way to the cottage we had rented for two nights on the Monkstadt 1745 estate, in the north of the island. Beautifully decorated and exceptionally cozy, with a wood-burning stove in the living room that warmed us up after our rainy days, this cottage was a real favorite. Surrounded by fields with unobstructed sea views, it offers complete peace and tranquility. Although it's close to Portree and the Old Man of Storr and Quiraing hikes, it's a bit far from the island's other attractions. For us, the comfort and serenity of the cottage more than made up for the distance.
Day 5: The Quiraing, the Fairy Pools and the Talisker Distillery
Early in the day, we arrived at the start of the Quiraing hike, known as one of the most spectacular in Scotland. The car park was empty, and we felt a thrilling sense of being completely alone. As we climbed, we uncovered breathtaking panoramas of the Quiraing's rugged slopes, the valley below, and the surrounding lochs and mountains. We wound our way across steep plateaus and rocky inclines before reaching the summit, a long grassy plateau. After crossing the plateau, we followed the path which descends steeply back to the car park.
The hike, a 7-km loop with ~350 meters of elevation gain, took us about 2.5 hours. It felt slightly more challenging than the Old Man of Storr due to its lenght and the sometimes stony and muddy path. The first section from the car park was well marked and easy to follow, but once we reached the summit, we struggled a bit to find our way down the other side of the plateau, despite good visibility. We therefore would not recommend this hike in threatening or foggy weather. Like the Old Man of Storr, the Quiraing is particularly famous at sunrise.
We then headed to the south of the island, stopping first at Kilt Rock (15-minute drive). The cliffs, made up of basalt columns, owe their name to their resemblance to the folds of a Scottish kilt. Next, we continued to the Fairy Pools (1 hour drive), a series of natural pools fed by waterfalls. The site is quite touristy, and we did not find anything particularly remarkable, so it did not quite live up to the hype for us.
We ended the day with a visit to the nearby Talisker Distillery . Founded in 1830, it produces a whisky of character, renowned for its peaty, peppery, and slightly salty notes that reflect the maritime climate of the island. The guided tour explained the entire whisky-making process, from distillation to aging in oak barrels, and concluded with a tasting (guided tour of the site + tasting: ~23€). Remember to book in advance!
Day 6: Elgol and Donan Castle
For our last morning on the Isle of Skye, we set off to explore the south, taking the B8083 road, which connects Broadford to the village of Elgol in 40 minutes. This scenic route winds along plains and lakes, offering breathtaking views of the towering peaks of the Cuillin Hills. Upon arriving in Elgol, we turned back, feeling a touch of nostalgia at the thought of leaving the island's captivating landscapes.
We then continued our journey to Eilean Donan Castle, just a 15-minute drive from Skye. Nestled on a small island connected to the mainland by a stone bridge and framed by imposing mountains, this castle is one of Scotland's most famous landmarks. Its perfectly restored and richly decorated interior immersed us in the region's turbulent history.
We then headed to the Glencoe region, our final stop in Scotland, a 2-hour 15-minute drive away. We spent 2 nights at the magnificent Kings House Hotel, nestled in the heart of nature. The historic building, dating back to the 18th century, blends seamlessly with a modern 2018 extension, offering a truly unique experience. Large bay windows reveal stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including the famous Buachaille Etive Mòr dominating the valley. The restaurant serves traditional Scottish dishes, best enjoyed by the fire, and the attentive staff makes the stay even more memorable. A true gem in the heart of the Highlands!
Day 7: The West Highland Way
The Kings House Hotel, where we stayed, is located on the West Highland Way, a very popular hiking trail stretching over 150 kms between Glasgow and Fort William. We set off to explore a section of the trail from the hotel. After a 20-minute walk across flat terrain to the Glencoe ski area, the hike gradually climbs to its highest point, offering breathtaking panoramic views of Rannoch Moor and the surrounding mountains. The descent that follows is gentle and gradual, and plunged us into the heart of Rannoch Moor, one of Scotland's largest and oldest moors. The landscapes were both grand and stark, constantly changing with the weather. We turned around after reaching Rannoch Moor Bridge, just over 6 kms south of the hotel.
Upon our return, we were delighted to spot two deer very close to the hotel. Accustomed to human presence, they allowed us to watch them up close, giving us the chance to admire their majestic appearance, and to capture this special moment.
We spent the rest of the afternoon by the fire at the hotel, soaking in the warmth and the beauty of the surrounding Highlands.
Day 8: Loch Etive and Luss
On our last day in Scotland, we hit the road to Loch Etive, a 45-minute drive from the hotel. The road itself is famous as the setting for one of the memorable scenes in Skyfall, where James Bond (played by Daniel Craig) crosses the Glen Etive valley to reach his family estate, Skyfall Lodge. We never grew tired of the beauty of the Glencoe region.
We then continued to Glasgow, stopping in Luss (1 hour 45 minutes' drive from Loch Etive). This small village of stone houses and flower-lined streets, nestled on the banks of Loch Lomond, is renowned for its traditional charm. Several walks, ranging from 15 minutes to 1 hour, allow visitors to explore the village and its surroundings. After a short hour's stroll, we had lunch at the Coach House Coffee Shop. This small café, in the heart of the village, is very welcoming and particularly comforting in the rain. It offers a selection of drinks, artisanal pastries and simple but delicious lunch options.
We finally headed to Glasgow (30 minutes from Luss) to catch our return flight.
If you have more time...
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Edinburgh: We had the opportunity to explore Edinburgh on a previous trip. If you have an extra 2 days, we recommend flying into Edinburgh (instead of Glasgow) to discover this magnificient city, a unique fusion of eras - medieval for the old town and neoclassical for the new.
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Ulapool: We had planned to climb Stac Pollaidh (a 3-hour round trip), which offers incredible views of the surrounding mountains and lakes, and then explore the small fishing port of Ulapool nearby. Unfortunately, the unpredictable weather prevented us from doing so. This stop can be added if you have an extra day, or it can be an alternative to day 4 of our itinerary, provided you manage to fit in the Old Man of Storr hike during your stay on Skye :).
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Glenfinnan Viaduct: This viaduct is famous for its appearance in the Harry Potter films, where the Hogwarts Express crosses it. In summer, an old steam train (the Jacobite Steam Train, nicknamed "the Hogwarts train") crosses the viaduct 4 times a day. Located just a 25-minute drive from Fort Williams, it can easily be included in your itinerary if you have more time than we did, as we passed through Fort Williams twice (on days 1 and 6).
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