Entre
deux valises
Entre
deux valises
Day trips and weekend escapes around Paris
Just a short trip from Paris, discover perfect day or weekend getaways where nature, picturesque villages and cultural treasures await.
Mushroom picking in the autumn woods
We spent a day in the forest for a mushroom picking guided tour, which gave us the chance to learn the basics of mushroom picking while enjoying the beautiful autumn colors. The location is kept secret by the guide until the day of the outing to protect the picking site and keep a bit of surprise. All we can say is that the tour took place in Île-de-France, less than 1 hour from Paris.
An introduction to mushroom picking
The day began with a comprehensive introduction to mushrooms: the different types, their role in biodiversity, the rules for responsible picking, and tips on how to store them. Our guide, very knowledgeable and approachable, then taught us how to recognize trees and understand the connection between certain species and the likelihood of finding mushrooms at their base. She also covered the basics of identifying mushroom species, the right picking techniques to follow, and common mistakes to avoid - all with the help of a handy identification guidebook.
Putting theory into practice
After a picnic in the heart of the forest, we moved on to practice. Basket in hand, we explored the trails to find and identify different mushroom species, applying the tips shared in the morning. The guide walked around to answer questions and offer extra advice. At the end of the session, we had a group debrief to compare our finds and learn to better identify certain species together - a fun and educational approach. We also took the opportunity to collect chestnuts, with the guide sharing tips on how to cook and store them.
Takeaways
The pace of the day was relaxed, the guide very knowledgeable, and we all left with a few mushrooms and plenty of new knowledge! These outings are organized in small groups at various locations across Île-de-France, depending on the mushroom season. We joined the October session, but several others are planned throughout the season (see here). A really enjoyable experience to get out into nature and learn more about it!
From Luzarches to Royaumont Abbey (13.6 km)
This day hike in Val-d’Oise follows a 13.6 km loop starting from Luzarches (see the route here) and offers a refreshing nature escape less than an hour from Paris. Its highlight? Royaumont Abbey, a hidden gem nestled in lush greenery.
Luzarches and the countryside trails
The walk begins in Luzarches, just 50 minutes by train from Paris (line H from Gare du Nord). Once an important medieval stopover on the route between Paris and northern France, the town reveals itself through its 14th-century market hall, old houses, and the Saint-Côme Gate. Soon after, the walk leaves the historic center to join peaceful country paths and wooded passages. After about 1 hour 40 minutes of walking, we reached the highlight of the day: Royaumont Abbey.
Royaumont Abbey, a Cistercian treasure
Founded in 1228 by Saint Louis, the abbey is impressive at first sight. Although the abbey church has disappeared, the rest of the site is remarkably well preserved: the cloister, the chapter house, the refectory… all set in a stunning green environment. A real favorite!
The one-hour guided tour gives deeper insight into the abbey’s history - from monastic life to its industrial role, and finally to its current function as a cultural center.
We enjoyed a picnic in the large garden, making use of the deckchairs provided - an ideal relaxing break after the walk from Luzarches and the guided tour. If you haven’t brought a picnic, a café/tea room on site offers food in a beautiful setting.
Prices: €10 for entry, or €14.50 with the guided tour (highly recommended, available only on weekends and public holidays - check the website).
The way back
The return route also alternates between forest passages and quiet trails. It took us 1 hour 20 minutes to reach Luzarches station at a fairly brisk pace. For both the outbound and return journeys, be sure to follow the mapped route closely, as your GPS will tend to prioritize roads over the small paths that make this walk so charming.
Takeaways
An accessible hike, mostly flat, that combines heritage, nature, and tranquility. Perfect for a green getaway just a stone’s throw from Paris.
A weekend of nature and heritage around Villers-Cotterêts
We spent a weekend exploring a (tiny) part of Aisne - a wonderful discovery less than two hours from Paris. We opted for the car, which made it easier to move around freely, but it’s also possible to reach the towns we visited by train from Paris (~1h30) and connect them by public transport. Another option is to explore the region by bike (this loop passes through the main spots we visited over the weekend). The area is perfect for it, though it’s hilly, so be ready for a sporty ride, or consider an e-bike!
A bucolic walk from La Ferté-Milon
We kicked off the weekend with a 9-km loop starting from La Ferté-Milon, the birthplace of Jean Racine. The walk begins along the peaceful Ourcq Canal, a particularly pleasant stretch, before winding into fields and woodlands. It took us 2h15 to complete. Be aware: the directions provided on the website where we found the walk (here) were not very clear, so it’s better to follow the mapped route. The walk also offers few spots to rest: if you’re planning a picnic, it’s best to do it at the start or end of the walk. There’s a bakery in the Ferté-Milon center if you need supplies. We had brought our own picnic, which we enjoyed by the canal upon our return. Afterwards, we climbed up to the ruins of the imposing castle overlooking the town, passing the Eiffel footbridge, the dovecote, and the Notre-Dame church along the way.
Note: there are several parking areas around the canal.
A luxurious retreat at Moulin Royale
In the late afternoon, we checked into Moulin Royale. This magnificent 5-star guesthouse lived up to every expectation: swimming pool, vast landscaped garden, peaceful atmosphere, elegant interior design, and a breakfast as generous as it was varied. With a bit of luck, you may even spot foxes, owls, or deers crossing the garden. The property also offers several thoughtful extras: bike rentals, picnic baskets, and barbecue kits to cook directly in the garden. We made the most of the setting by going for a short jog to the Étang de Neuffontaines (about 5 km round trip - note that part of the route is along the road).
Ideally located for exploring the surrounding area, Moulin Royale is accessible only by car or bicycle. If you’re traveling on foot, plan for a taxi ride from the nearest train station.
Dinner in Longpont, facing the Abbey
In the evening, we had dinner in Longpont, a small village dominated by the remains of an ancient abbey, which can actually be visited on certain days of the week. The restaurant we chose, L’Hôtel de l’Abbaye, boasts a lovely terrace with a view of the abbey, as well as a cozy indoor dining room with a fireplace. The service was attentive, and the meal excellent. A wonderful discovery.
Immersion in the French Language at Villers-Cotterêts
The following day, we visited the Cité Internationale de la langue française, housed in the castle of Villers-Cotterêts. It was here, in 1539, that François I signed the ordinance establishing French as the official language for the kingdom’s legal and administrative acts.
The museum, modern and interactive, explores the richness of the French language through the centuries and across the world. We chose the guided tour (1h30, €16.50), which highlighted some fascinating details. That said, the rooms are very well designed and immersive enough to fully enjoy the visit on your own if you take your time. The center of Villers-Cotterêts offers a few restaurants and a pleasant park for a picnic.
For next time…
The region is full of other treasures we didn’t have time to explore: Pierrefonds and its château, Soissons, Compiègne… Plenty of good reasons to come back - maybe by bike next time!
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