Sweden | Entre deux valises

Entre
deux valises

From Stockholm to Skåne: our 2-week itinerary through Sweden

Sweden is a country of wide-open spaces, countless lakes and a strong connection with nature. From the forests and fields stretching as far as the eye can see to the rocky coastline in the west and the white sandy beaches in the south, the landscapes are incredibly varied. Add to that the iconic red wooden houses, and you get a real sense of what makes Sweden so distinctive. The distances are vast — we travelled more than 2,000 km — but every stop we made brought its own mix of tranquillity and simplicity.

Summary

Days 7 and 8 - The Bohuslän region, on Sweden’s west coast

Days 2 and 3 - Exploring the surroundings of Stockholm

Day 9 - Store Mosse, a different kind of Swedish landscape

Days 4, 5 and 6 - Canoe Trip: three days on Sweden’s lakes

Days 10, 11 and 12 - Three days in Skåne: hiking, history and cycling

Day 1 - A day in Stockholm

Overview of our trip

Duration

12 days

Distance traveled

2,600 km

Time of year

July

Not to be missed

Stockholm city centre, and particularly the Gamla Stan district, three days of canoeing on Sweden’s lakes, the fishing villages along the west coast, Store Mosse National Park, and a bike ride in Skåne.

Our top picks

Gamla Stan
Stockholm’s historic centre, with its narrow streets and colourful buildings. It is a lovely area to explore on foot, and a great place to soak up the city’s history and atmosphere.

A few days canoeing in Värmland
A trip on the lakes, fully independent, with days spent paddling, wild camping and enjoying the peace and quiet. A bit of effort, but plenty of time to slow down, surrounded by nature.

Smögen
Colourful houses, a lively harbour and walks along the coast: Smögen is exactly what you might picture when you think of a Swedish coastal town. Of all the places we visited on the west coast, this is the one we would recommend most.

Store Mosse: a different kind of Sweden

Walking on wooden boardwalks through wetlands, listening out for wildlife and trying to spot it along the way. Store Mosse offers a completely different landscape from many of the other places we visited in Sweden.

Cycling in southern Sweden
Signposted cycling routes along the coast, through forests, towns and villages, are a great way to explore differently the southern tip of Sweden.

Our itinerary

A day in Stockholm

With only one day in Stockholm, we chose to explore some of the capital’s best-known sights on foot.

Östermalm Food Hall: it’s impossible to miss this beautiful red-brick building. Inside, you get the feel of a traditional market, but in a much more elegant setting. Alongside the usual stalls selling fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat and fish, you can also pick up something to eat or sit at one of the counters for lunch. You can try some local specialities too, including dishes made with prawns. Prices are high, but it’s well worth a visit!
Gamla Stan: this is Stockholm’s old town. It is undoubtedly one of the capital’s most iconic neighbourhoods, with its narrow streets and colourful buildings. It is very touristy, so we recommend coming early in the morning, or moving away from the busiest streets and exploring the quieter parallel ones, which are just as pretty. Alongside all kinds of shops, the neighbourhood is home to several museums, including the Nobel Prize Museum, as well as Storkyrkan Cathedral, the oldest building in the city. The central square, Stortorget, is also a must-see. We opted for a 2-hour guided tour booked through Civitatis, which took us around the main sights in the neighbourhood and gave us a better understanding of the key facts of Stockholm and Swedish history.
The Changing of the Guard: the Changing of the Guard takes place in the courtyard of Kungliga Slottet, the Royal Palace and official residence of the Swedish royal family. The ceremony takes place every day at 12.15 pm (1.15 pm on Sundays) from May to September, and only on Wednesdays, weekends and public holidays for the rest of the year. It attracts large crowds, so we recommend arriving at least 30 minutes early to get a good view.
Walk along the waterfront south of Gamla Stan: for some great views over the city, we recommend the short walk from Monteliusvägen to Skinnarviksberget Park. We walked there from Gamla Stan, and it took us around 40 minutes to reach Skinnarviksberget. The walk is particularly popular at sunset!

There are plenty of other places in Stockholm that we didn’t have time to visit. We were particularly recommended the Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet) and a guided tour of the City Hall (Stadshuset), whose interiors are said to be particularly impressive. You can also explore some of the islands in the Stockholm archipelago, such as Vaxholm, which is easy to reach from the city centre.

Exploring the surroundings of Stockholm

We spent two days exploring the surroundings of Stockholm. The different stops we made are pleasant and easy to combine by car, but in our opinion, they are not essential if you are short on time.

Birka: founded by the Vikings and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Birka was one of Northern Europe’s main trading towns between 750 and 980. The site is on an island and includes burial mounds characteristic of Viking burial practices, a small museum and a reconstructed village showing what Viking life was like. The site is well laid out and the surrounding countryside is nice, but we were a little disappointed by the lack of historical information and details, despite the 45-minute guided tour included in the entrance ticket. The official website has information about ferry times and the different options for getting to the island. We took the ferry from Rastaholm, where there is free parking at the harbour.
Sigtuna: this small town on the waterfront is the oldest in Sweden. It has several interesting historic sites, including the ruins of St Olof’s Church and the restored medieval frescoes in Mariakyrkan Church. Don’t miss Stora Gatan, a charming street lined with colourful shops.
Uppsala: despite its size, Uppsala is easy to explore on foot, particularly around the centre, where the main sights are all within a short distance of each other. These include Linnéträdgården, a historic botanical garden, Domkyrka Cathedral, and Uppsala Slott, which houses a collection of modern art.
Örebro: one of Sweden’s main cities, known for Örebro Slott, a castle set on a small island, and the large Stadsparken park along the river. The park is also home to Wadköping, an open-air museum where you can see Swedish buildings dating from the 17th to the 19th centuries.

Canoë Trip: three days on Sweden's lakes

To spend some time surrounded by nature, with a bit of exercise and plenty of time to relax, we chose the Canoe Trip experience organised by Travelbase. Three days away from everyday life, with a real chance to switch off. If wild camping doesn’t put you off, we highly recommend the experience. It remains one of our favourite memories from Sweden.

How the Canoe Trip works

The idea is simple: from a base camp in the heart of Värmland (here), a region dotted with lakes and small islands, you set off by canoe to explore unspoilt nature, completely independently. You paddle at your own pace, choose your route and set up camp wherever you like, right in the middle of nature. You don’t need to be particularly sporty, but you will have to do a fair bit of paddling!

The agency also provides suggested routes to help you find some of the best scenery in the region. Depending on the route you choose, you may pass through a few locks and, sometimes, even cross the forest with your canoe on wheels!

How to organise your days

Ideally, paddle in the morning, taking a few breaks when needed, then start looking for a place to stop for lunch and spend the night in the early to mid-afternoon. In Sweden, the right of public access to nature allows wild camping, provided that you respect the environment and keep your distance from houses. You can therefore camp wherever you find a suitable spot, either on the shores of the lakes or on small islands, depending on what you fancy. You can also choose to sleep in wooden shelters shared with other travellers - some even have composting toilets. These shelters are marked on the map provided by the agency.

Setting up camp often takes longer than expected, but it is very much part of the experience. Once everything is set up, all that is left to do is enjoy the peace and quiet and your own little spot in nature.

Our experience

We absolutely loved this break in nature. Most of the time, we were alone on vast stretches of water, surrounded by complete silence. We found some beautiful places to spend the night, which made the experience particularly peaceful and relaxing.

The experience is also very well organised by the agency. The staff are friendly and put a strong emphasis on everyone’s safety. The agency provides a useful app with detailed maps, as well as a paper map to make things easier. For reference, we had mobile phone reception throughout our stay.

Practical information and options

We chose the 3-day / 2-night option so that we would still have time to explore the rest of Sweden. There is also an 8-day option, which is ideal if you want to explore the region in more depth.
The trips are available to book from May to September. We went in early July and had two days of good weather and one day of rain and wind. The weather in the region can change quite quickly, and the staff send out daily weather updates.
On the day of departure, you need to arrive at the base camp at 9 am for the briefing. The staff explain the paddling techniques and the rules to follow, and give you some advice on how to organise your equipment in the canoe. Once your equipment is ready, you can head out onto the water.
Travelbase provides all the essentials (canoe, barrel and small dry bags, cooking equipment and a 5-litre water container) and also offers camping equipment for hire (tent, sleeping bags and mats), as well as generous food packs, with either meat or vegetarian options.
You can drink water from the lake and use it for cooking after boiling it. Alternatively, you can bring water purification tablets or a filtered water bottle.
You can make your own way to the base camp or choose one of the transport options offered by Travelbase.
All the details and options are available on their website.
We paid €610 for two people, including the camping equipment and food pack options.

What to bring

Travelbase provides a list of the essential items to bring here. Here are a few additional tips and details about some of the equipment:

Tarp: essential for protecting your equipment from the rain, both at camp and in the canoe. We used a 3 x 4 metre tarp, which was a little too small to properly protect the tent and equipment from the rain at night.
Camping chairs: very useful for meals and relaxing. We also brought a hammock for a bit of extra comfort.

Alongside the list provided by Travelbase, we recommend adding:

2 bowls and 2 reusable cups (more practical than plates and suitable for all kinds of meals).
1 tea towel for drying the dishes.
1 large 30-litre dry bag for storing clothes, and 1 small 5-litre dry bag for your camera if you are bringing one.
1 emergency blanket, always useful.
2 lengths of rope, around 10 metres each (3 mm and 5 mm thick), for hanging the tarp and hammock.
Toilet paper (you need to take it back to the base camp with your rubbish, do not leave it in the nature).
Body wipes, in case you can’t wash in the lake on some mornings or evenings.
1 tin opener.
1 Opinel-style knife for cutting food or rope.
A few extra snacks and drinks for an aperitif or between meals if you choose the food pack option, depending on what you like: cheese, drinks, cherry tomatoes, savoury biscuits, green olives, bananas...

Choose lightweight, compact equipment, as everything has to be carried by canoe.

Respecting nature

Fires are not allowed outside the wooden shelters, which have designated fire pits. There have already been fires in the region, so it is important to follow this rule. Also remember not to leave anything behind. Travelbase provides a large rubbish bag, but if you are going for 8 days, it is probably worth bringing an extra one.

The Bohuslän region, on Sweden's west coast

The Swedish west coast, in the Bohuslän region, is made up of rocky peninsulas, small islands and fishing harbours. If, like us, you are not planning any specific activities such as a cruise or kayaking, one or two days are enough to get a good overview of the area. Each town or village has its own character, but the overall atmosphere can start to feel quite similar from one place to the next. Of the places we visited, we would particularly recommend the islands of Smögen and Tjörn.

Tanum: Tanum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famous for its Bronze Age rock carvings, which depict everyday life, beliefs and rituals of the people who lived there at the time. The site includes several areas, including Vitlycke, Aspeberget and Litsleby. If you are short on time, there is no need to visit them all: Vitlycke, with its museum and guided tour, already gives you a very good overview. The guided tour, which lasts around 30 minutes and starts at the Vitlycke Museum, focuses on the rock carvings, how they were made and the symbols depicted. The museum adds to the experience by explaining how local communities lived, displaying objects that have been found in the area and recreating a village with houses and workshops. When we visited, we were able to watch an archery demonstration and see how Bronze Age tools were made. Maps and QR codes in several languages, including English and French, allow you to explore the different sites independently.
Smögen Island: Smögen, which is accessible by bridge, is a good example of the image you might have of a Swedish fishing village. The red houses in the centre and the colourful buildings along the harbour create a typically Swedish, very photogenic setting. We visited Smögen in the morning and found it fairly peaceful. This 6 km loop not only takes you along the busy quays, where you can discover restaurants and souvenir shops, but also out onto the rocks by the sea, with lovely views over the harbour and coastline.
Lysekil: this coastal town is best explored on foot, with a walking route of a few kilometres following the coastline. The trail is marked by red and white signs on the rocks, and offers lovely views over the sea and the fishing houses. For a wider panorama, climb up to Lysekils Utsiktstorn: the 360° views over the town and archipelago are well worth it!
Fiskebäckskil: from Lysekil, Fiskebäckskil is easy to reach either on foot or by car. By car, a free ferry from Finnsbo takes you across the bay in around ten minutes, with frequent departures. On foot, there is a passenger ferry that leaves directly from Lysekil. Fiskebäckskil is a small, well-preserved village, with cobbled streets and colourful houses. It has a peaceful, pleasant atmosphere and is a nice place for a short stop.
Fjällbacka: this village is particularly known for the short Kungsklyftan Fjällbacka walk, which starts near the harbour. The path first takes you between two imposing rock walls, then a wooden staircase leads up to the top of Vetteberget, offering beautiful views over the village and surrounding countryside.
Tjörn Island: Tjörn, accessible by bridge, stands out for its cultural attractions. The Skulptur i Pilane open-air museum (SEK 150 per person) displays large contemporary sculptures scattered around a pleasant natural setting, which also includes Iron Age burial sites. In Skärhamn, the Nordiska Akvarellmuseet watercolour museum is well worth a visit, while the waterfront offers some lovely walks. When we visited, the harbour was also hosting an exhibition of 20th-century wooden boats.

Store Mosse, a different kind of Swedish landscape

Store Mosse National Park, which is free to enter, felt quite different from the other landscapes we encountered in Sweden and was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. It is made up of large areas of wetland, crossed by wooden boardwalks, as well as wide open spaces. It is also a good place for spotting wildlife, particularly birds, deer and moose.

The park is very large and has numerous walking trails, ranging from 3 to 14 km, either circular or one-way, with no significant elevation gain. There are around ten car parks spread around the park, so you can choose one depending on which trail you want to take. You can find a map of the park here.

We made several stops during our day in the park.

We started with the Kvarnö observation tower, in the east of the park, which is known as a good place for spotting moose, particularly around sunrise. Unfortunately, we didn’t have any luck.
We then followed the Blådöpet Runt trail (5.2 km) in the south of the park. The observation tower at the start of the trail gives you an unobstructed view over the park’s vast open areas. You could almost forget which country you are in, if the rain didn’t remind you that you really are in Sweden! The trail alternates between paths and wooden boardwalks, which are essential for crossing the wetlands. We heard several calls that sounded like they could have come from a moose, but never came across the animal we were hoping to see.
We then headed towards the centre of the park to continue with the Lilla Lövö Runt walk (5.3 km), which combines open plains and dense pine forests. The forests form real islands in the middle of the wetlands and create a lovely contrast, with bilberry bushes covering parts of the ground. The two trails we followed, Blådöpet Runt and Lilla Lövö Runt, complement each other well and offer a good variety of landscapes.
We finished our visit with a stop at the Naturum, the park’s visitor centre, which is also an excellent place to take shelter if it rains heavily. There are explanations about how Store Mosse was formed and its history. We also took the opportunity to have a well-deserved waffle at the park café.

We really enjoyed Store Mosse and the surrounding area. It is a quiet, sparsely populated part of Sweden and a particularly good place to take a break in nature.

Three days in Skåne: hiking, history and cycling

Located in the far south of Sweden, Skåne offers a wide variety of landscapes, including nature reserves, sandy beaches, forests and historic towns. We spent three days here, and below are a few ideas for things to do.

Hiking in a nature reserve

Skåne has several nature reserves and parks that are free to access. We visited two of them.

Stenshuvud National Park: particularly known for its long stretch of pale sandy beach, the park has several fairly short walking trails (1 to 4 km, with routes available here). We parked at the northern entrance and followed the Hällevikslingan loop (4 km), taking a detour to climb up to the Stenshuvudslingan viewpoint before heading back down to the beach, where we had a picnic. The trail alternates between forest and coastline, and the park is very pleasant. Just next door is Kiviks Musteri, a farm specialising in apple products (cider, juice, etc.), with a shop and café. It seemed to be very popular, judging by how busy it was when we visited.
Söderåsen National Park: the park has numerous walks through a large, hilly forest which, like Stenshuvud, have different lengths and difficulty levels (1 to 8 km return). The routes are available here. We opted for a short walk, the Kopparhattsrundan (4 km), which was very accessible. The walk is pleasant, but of the three parks we visited in Sweden, this was probably the one we found the least memorable.

Visiting a historic town

Lund, a medieval town, is the second-oldest city in Sweden. It is particularly known for its well-preserved historic centre, cobbled streets, half-timbered houses and impressive cathedral, founded in the 12th century. After visiting Lund Cathedral, we came across the Kulturen museum a bit randomly. It has a very varied collection, ranging from weapons and clothing to everyday objects. But it was the historic buildings that really stood out to us: actual buildings from different periods, moved to the site and presented with interiors either recreated or preserved in their original condition. You can go from a 17th-century church to houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. It is a fascinating way to get a glimpse into history and see how ways of life have changed over time.

Relaxing on a white sandy beach

The town of Skanör is known for its long white sandy beaches, lined with brightly coloured wooden huts set among the dunes. They are particularly photogenic. There is a car park just behind the huts (Skanörs strandparkering), making them easy to reach. It is a pleasant place to stop for a break, walk along the beach or simply enjoy the seaside.

Exploring Skåne by bike

The region is crossed by two major signposted cycling routes, Sydkustleden and Sydostleden, which take you through a variety of landscapes: forests, coastline, beaches, villages and coastal towns. Details of the routes are available here. We chose to cycle the Brösarp–Åhus section (around 60 km return). The route mainly follows cycle paths, with a few sections on roads. On the advice of our bike hire company, we avoided the fast, hilly road section at the start from Brösarp, and went instead through a military area that is open in summer and bordered by beautiful coastal meadows. We then joined the signposted cycle path, which runs through pine forests and small villages all the way to Åhus, a pretty town with cobbled streets. After having a picnic beside the canal, we turned around and cycled back. This enjoyable bike ride was one of the highlights of our trip. The bike hire company (website here) were very friendly and gave us some great advice — we highly recommend them.